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WANGLONG COPITS CHINENSIS
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27
2020-05
Huanglian Cultivation Technology
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Choose a site for oil bamboo mixed forest with deep, loose, fertile soil rich in humus, strong drainage, and good permeability. The soil should be slightly acidic to neutral, and the terrain should be a gentle slope with an angle of no more than 30 degrees for morning and evening sunlight exposure. Avoid continuous cropping.
The planting of Huanglian requires selection of seeds, seedling cultivation, and transplantation. Generally, seedlings are transplanted after 2 years of cultivation, and transplantation can occur in spring, summer, or autumn. In the first three years after planting, timely replanting and weeding should be done. For Huanglian that has been transplanted for 3 to 4 years, weeding should be done 3 or 4 times a year. From the second year onwards, except for the plants reserved for seed, flower buds should be removed in a timely manner. During the cultivation process, the shading of the shade structure should be adjusted according to the planting years and the growth requirements of the plants.
Planting Period
There are three periods each year for planting: The first period is from February to March after the snow melts, before the new leaves of Huanglian have grown. The survival rate after planting is high, and new leaves and roots grow shortly after transplantation, leading to good growth. After entering the hot season, there are few dead seedlings, making it a relatively good time for planting, referred to by the public as 'planting old leaves.' The second period is in May to June, when new leaves have already grown, and the seedlings are larger. The survival rate after planting is high, and growth is also good, referred to by the public as 'planting seedlings.' However, it should not be delayed past July, as high temperatures in July lead to many dead seedlings and severe root loss, resulting in poor growth. The third period is in September to October, when planting shortly leads to frost, and if the roots are not stable, they may be easily pulled out by frost in winter and spring, resulting in a low survival rate. Planting should only occur at this time in areas with low warmth and no frost.
Preparing Seedlings
Before planting, pull out strong seedlings from the seedbed. When pulling seedlings, use the index finger and thumb of the right hand to pinch the small root stem of the seedling and pull it out, shaking off the soil and placing it in the left hand, with the root stem resting on the thumb side, arranging the seedling heads neatly, and ensuring the fibrous roots are straight and not bent. Bundle 100 seedlings together. When pulling seedlings, many fibrous roots may be damaged and lose vitality, so new roots must regrow after planting. Therefore, before planting, cut off any excessively long fibrous roots about 1 cm from the head. If using the 'through rod method' for transplantation, the fibrous roots should be left longer, about 1.2 to 2 cm. After cutting the fibrous roots, wash the soil off the seedling roots with water for easier operation during planting, allowing the root stem to easily contact the soil to induce new roots, while the seedlings absorb moisture, making them fresh for planting and easier to survive after planting. Usually, seedlings are pulled in the morning and planted in the afternoon, preferably finishing the planting on the same day; if not finished, they should be spread out in a cool, damp place, and before planting the next day, they should be soaked in water again. Soaking the roots in a solution of ammonium molybdate at a ratio of 1 to 500 for 2 hours can promote root growth and accelerate growth; soaking the roots in a solution of potassium permanganate at a ratio of 0.5 to 1 to 500 for 2 hours also helps accelerate root growth and development.
Planting Methods
Seedlings should be planted on cloudy or sunny days, and not on rainy days, as rain can compact the soil surface, causing seedlings to become muddy and difficult to survive. There are three planting methods: The first is the back knife method, using a special wooden-handled heart-shaped small iron shovel. When planting, hold the shovel in the right hand and use the thumb, index, and middle fingers to hold a handful of seedlings. With the left hand, take one seedling from the right hand, holding the upper part of the seedling with the thumb, index, and middle fingers, then immediately insert the iron shovel vertically into the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 cm, and pull it forward 2 to 3 cm to create a small hole. Insert the seedling upright into the hole, quickly remove the small shovel, push the soil forward to cover the hole, and press down on the seedling with the back of the shovel. From top to bottom, plant while retreating, loosening the soil and leveling the footprints. The seedlings should not be planted too shallow; generally, seedlings of appropriate age should have their leaves completely buried in the soil, with a maximum depth of no more than 6 cm for easier survival. The row and plant spacing is usually 10 cm, with square planting, allowing for 55,000 to 60,000 plants per acre. The second method is the killing knife method, which involves pressing the seedling's fibrous roots with an iron shovel and inserting it directly into the soil. This method is quick but has a lower survival rate than the back knife method and is generally used less. The third method is the through rod method, where one hand holds the seedling, and the other hand's index finger presses down on the root stem, inserting it into the soil. The index finger is slightly rotated, then withdrawn, and the soil is pushed to cover the hole left by the finger. This method is faster and has a higher survival rate.
Field Management
After planting Huanglian, immediately apply a small amount of cow and horse manure and smoke soil, referred to as knife edge fertilizer. Fertilization should be done once each in early spring, after summer seed harvest, and between October and November in winter. In spring and summer, fast-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen and phosphorus should be the main focus, while winter fertilization should primarily use cow and horse manure and smoke soil, with soil mounding after each fertilization. In the first and second years, mound the soil about 1 cm, and in the third and fourth years, 2 to 3 cm.
Weeding should be done before fertilization. In the first two years after transplantation, seedlings are small, and the soil has large gaps, making it easy for weeds to grow. Weeding should be done 4 to 5 times a year. For Huanglian that is four to five years old, the rows are already closed, and weeding should be done 3 times a year in conjunction with fertilization. For seedlings grown under a shelter, after harvesting seeds in May of the same year, the cover should be removed to allow sunlight, suppressing leaf growth and promoting root stem fullness. For seedlings grown in the forest, starting from the third year after planting, branches should be pruned in winter to allow sunlight to penetrate, reducing the shading from about 70% at planting to 20% to 30%.
Replanting Seedlings
After planting, there are often varying degrees of dead seedlings. In the first, second, and third years after planting, about 10% of seedlings die each year, so timely replanting should be done. Generally, replanting is done twice: the first time in the autumn of the same year, using strong seedlings of the same age for replanting, which is easier to survive when transplanted with soil. The second replanting occurs after the snow melts in the second year, before the new leaves have grown. In high mountain areas with significant winter frost, seedlings planted in the previous autumn often emerge from the ground, so after the snow melts, a detailed inspection should be conducted. Seedlings that have emerged should be pressed back into the soil by hand to ensure they can still survive. If dead seedlings are found, they should be replanted. If any missing seedlings are discovered later, seedlings of comparable age should be selected for replanting with soil to ensure consistent growth after planting.
Weeding
Due to the implementation of pre-planting weeding, it is advisable to combine it with chemical weeding. In the year of planting and the following year, weeding should be done 4 to 5 times each year; in the third and fourth years, 3 to 4 times each year; and in the fifth year, once. Each time, when the grass has 2 to 3 leaves, use 250 grams of herbicide, 25 to 30 grams of simazine, and 2 bags of rice field herbicide (produced in Yongchuan) (only one of the three herbicides should be used), mixed with 20 to 30 kilograms of sand or phosphate fertilizer, and evenly spread on the yellow soil per mu in the afternoon or evening on sunny days, as well as on cloudy days (only counting the net area of the bed surface). Use a bamboo pole or tree branch to sweep it into the ground. Then, observe carefully; if there are any weeds that have not been removed, pull them out manually.
Topdressing
Topdressing should be done once within 2 to 3 days after planting, using diluted pig manure water or vegetable cake water. Alternatively, about 1000 kilograms of finely crushed compost or stable manure can be applied per mu. This fertilizer is called "knife-edge fertilizer," which can promote rapid growth after the seedlings take root. In September and October of the year of planting, and in May after seed collection in the second, third, fourth, and fifth years, topdressing should be done once each time, totaling 8 times. In spring, for topdressing, use 1000 kilograms of human and animal manure water and 20 to 30 kilograms of superphosphate per mu, mixed with fine soil or fine compost and spread evenly. After application, use fine bamboo branches to sweep off the fertilizer attached to the leaves. In autumn, the main fertilizer should be farmyard manure, supplemented with ash, oil cake, and other fertilizers; the fertilizer should be fully decomposed and finely crushed, applied to the bed surface with a thickness of about 1 centimeter, with a dosage of 1500 to 2000 kilograms per mu each time. If the fertilizer is insufficient, part of it can be replaced with humus soil or mixed fertilizer. The amount of fertilizer should be increased year by year. When applying dry fertilizer, it should be spread from low to high to prevent the fertilizer from rolling into piles or covering the leaves. Areas at the top of slopes and edges of beds that are easily washed away by rain should have more fertilizer applied.
The rhizomes of Coptis chinensis grow upwards, forming stem nodes each year. To increase yield, after topdressing in the autumn of the second, third, and fourth years, soil should also be mounded. Collect humus soil nearby, crush it finely, and apply it to the beds. In the second and third years, apply about 1 centimeter thick, called "upper flower mud"; in the fourth year, apply about 1.5 centimeters thick, called "upper rich mud." The soil must be applied evenly and not too thick; otherwise, the rhizome bridge will elongate, reducing quality.
Balanced Fertilization
Based on topdressing with mud, many Coptis farmers also apply chemical fertilizers after each weeding to promote growth. Comparative experiments show that the best ratio is to apply 50 kilograms of superphosphate and 10 kilograms of ammonium carbonate per mu each time.
Pest and Disease Control
The main disease is powdery mildew, which can be controlled by reducing shading and increasing light exposure, and using lime-sulfur mixture for prevention. Pest issues include grubs and mole crickets, which can be controlled with poisoned bait. In early spring, deer and pheasants harm flower buds and seeds, so fencing should be used, and manual capture should be strengthened to reduce damage.
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